One word defines the essence of surfing better for me than any other — stoke. One of the best things about stoke is that you can pass it along to someone who has never heard the expression.
I was an advocate of the deregulation movement and I made - along with a lot of other smart people - a fundamental mistake. The financial industry undergirded the entire economy and if it is made riskier by deregulation and collapses in widespread bankruptcies as what happened in 2008, the entire economy freezes because it runs on credit.