Women have a less accurate measure of time than men; there is a clock in Adam, none in Eve.
Kauai is kind of my place where I go to get centered. Its always my place to come back and feel normal again.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
I want to do whatever I possibly can to be as good as I can be.
It's funny because looking back at my first contest, I was 15 and surfing the Haleiwa contest wearing this tiny bikini. I remember not even thinking twice about wearing it - I just thought it was normal.
Surfer girls rip and they are hot
I think people are just haters. When they see people doing well, some people, if there's something wrong, they'll pick at that.
Fantasy should be as close as possible to journalism.
It was strange how your world could shift on its axis and everything you trusted could invert itself in what seemed like no time at all.
Our brain and our whole nervous system and our whole body are only created in relation to other people and to the environment. So what we have here is an enormously complex notion of both consciousness and unconsciousness. That's why these models get very difficult, because you can't reduce our subjective and intersubjective experience to neural reductions.
I can't play a slave.