Where should be be if we set ourselves to deny everything we do not know how to explain?
What ultimately matters is the emotions and feelings that you experienced and people around [whom] you experienced [them].
Being able to turn to Jesus after the shark attack kept me alive.
In the end, my love for surfing helped me overcome my fear of sharks.
Compassion can drive us to do amazing things and give us perspective.
God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
I think it doesn't matter if you are the best surfer in the world. I'm going to try to be the best surfer I can be. It's not all about competing and being the best. It's more about having fun and just doing what you love.
Success, in my view, is the willingness to strive for something you really want. The person not reaching the top is no less a success than the one who achieved it, if they both sweated blood, sweat and tears and overcame obstacles and fears. The failure to be perfect does not mean you're not a success.
People have always thought of me as someone who's very classical,when in fact I've led a rather unconventional life.
The word "archive" seems so reassuring, but I'm not sure about these things that are now being called archives. Is anything lost by the fact that the word has come to mean so many more things.
For moral reasons I am an atheist - for moral reasons. I am of the opinion that you would recognize a creator by his creation, and the world appears to me to be put together in such a painful way that I prefer to believe that it was not created by anyone than to think that somebody created this intentionally.