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I think that for me personally, a lot of my choices have been to do with my own issues of not feeling safe as a child and feeling a sense of stability.

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Mick Fanning

Yesterday I lost not only a competitor, friend but most importantly a brother. Andy Irons you will be in my heart for eternity! R. I. P AI

Brother, Heart, Iron, Importantly, Friend
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I think it's just really made me appreciate life more. I've known people die before that and I was really rattled by it but when it hit so close to home. . . it was just so different. I just thought about what I really wanted to do. I want to be a pro surfer and that's what I'm going to do.

Hit, Home, Sports, Surfer, Thinking

I can be surfing the exact same wave and then sometimes something will just set off, even if I'm riding the same board the whole time. Something will just set off and it just feels like you can push just that extra bit harder.

Sports, Surfing, Riding, Like, Exact

Some people have like a certain person, when they're around they get like a gnarly energy. I see it in other people, if a certain person's around they compete really well or something like that. I think it's sort of like that.

Gnarly, Like, People, See, Sports, Thinking

Sometimes things just happen. Sometimes surfing this bank from Snapper to Kirra, sometimes you don't even think what you're doing but you do it anyway. . . You get to the end of a wave and go, what did I do? Sometimes you go into a totally different state of mind.

Anyway, Kirra, Sports, Surfing, Thinking, Totally

Sometimes I wish I had every different sort of board that I could just bring out for this surf when I feeling like surfing this board. I love riding old single fins and twin fins.

Feelings, Like, Surfing, Twin, Wish
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