I love America, but I can't spend the whole year here. I can't afford the taxes.
Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
Being able to turn to Jesus after the shark attack kept me alive.
In the end, my love for surfing helped me overcome my fear of sharks.
Compassion can drive us to do amazing things and give us perspective.
God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
I think it doesn't matter if you are the best surfer in the world. I'm going to try to be the best surfer I can be. It's not all about competing and being the best. It's more about having fun and just doing what you love.
Bursts of gold on lavender melting into saffron. It's the time of day when the sky looks like it has been spray-painted by a graffiti artist.
They offered me one cover about 10 years ago, and I said, no, I can't do it. I'm happy to cover up now.
I am always astonishing myself. It is the only thing that makes life worth living.
If you have done the best you can do and if you have gotten all you could extract from something, you have given all you had to give, then the time has come when you can do no more than say thank you and move on.