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It is hard for a black man to just be himself. We spend so much time in defense of something that is indefensible because there is nothing to defend.

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Laird Hamilton

Normally, people who are frustrated out in the water are frustrated on land. They brought their frustration with them. If you go to a beach where there are a hundred guys out, and you paddle out looking to ride waves alone, you're setting yourself up.

Alone, Beach, Frustration, Land, Looking, Ride
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Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.

Independent, Mother, Possible, Strong, Woman

When you don't use sugar in your diet, all of the sudden fruits are really sweet. Honey is really sweet. Your taste buds change. I'm not psycho never have anything sweet, because that takes too much energy. The stress on your body just isn't worth it.

Fruit, Fruits, Stress, Sugar, Sweet, Use

In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.

Doors, Fabulous, Ocean, People, Tight

I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like. . . ballet for me.

Ballet, Big, Excel, Like, Needs, Stuff

Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.

Skill, Skills, Surfing, Underappreciated, Wiping, Wiping Out
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