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I try and do 2,500 words a day, every day of the year

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Like, Gossip, Hope, Thank You, Faith, Organization, Air, Inspire, Fly, Feelings, Fitness, Character, Leadership, Bear, Inspiring, Important, Song, Justice, Night, Gold, Life, Subject, Pleasures Of Life, Love You, Positive, Success, Soccer, Thinking, Afternoon, Home, Butterfly, Thought, Intelligent, Life Is Like, Art, Thing, Path Of Love, Quite, Talent, Dream, I Miss You, Live, Scholar, Journey, Feeling, Perfect Love, Comfortable, Beach, Glory, Integrity
Laird Hamilton

We're all equal before a wave.

Equal, Surfing, Wave
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Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.

Independent, Mother, Possible, Strong, Woman

When you don't use sugar in your diet, all of the sudden fruits are really sweet. Honey is really sweet. Your taste buds change. I'm not psycho never have anything sweet, because that takes too much energy. The stress on your body just isn't worth it.

Fruit, Fruits, Stress, Sugar, Sweet, Use

In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.

Doors, Fabulous, Ocean, People, Tight

I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like. . . ballet for me.

Ballet, Big, Excel, Like, Needs, Stuff

Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.

Skill, Skills, Surfing, Underappreciated, Wiping, Wiping Out
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